Elche
C/Vilà i Vilà 71 (93 441 30 89).
Metro Paral.lel.
Open 1-4.30pm, 8pm-midnight Mon-Thur; 1-4.30pm, 8pm-12.30am
Fri; 1pm-12.30am Sat; 1pm-midnight Sun.
A family-run paella restaurant where wonderfully friendly
management contrasts with a baffling ineptitude on the
part of the waiting staff. A pity, really, for the starters
(which can be had in half-portions) are delectable.
The paellas, fideuàs and rice broths are among
the best in the city. The split-level restaurant is
slightly lacking in character, and the piped-in music
doesn’t really help.
La Parra
C/Joanot Martorell 3 (93 332 51 34). Metro
Hostafrancs.
Open 8.30pm-midnight Tue-Fri; 2-4.30pm, 8.30pm-midnight
Sat; 2-4.30pm Sun. Closed Aug.
This 19th-century coaching inn now houses one of the
city’s best restaurants for Catalan a la brasa
cooking. Boulders of meat, still spitting from the fierce
wood-fired grill, are served on slabs of wood and accompanied
by ferociously strong all i oli. Lamb (actually mutton,
and none the worse for it) is served alongside goat,
horse, beef and rabbit, but the tastiest dish might
just be the succulent galtes (pig’s cheeks). The
cosy and traditionally decorated interior is the perfect
place to be on a cold winter’s night, while in
summer the eponymous vine provides cool shade on the
peaceful terrace.
La Tomaquera
C/Margarit 58 (no phone). Metro Poble Sec.
Open 1.30-3.45pm, 8.30-10.45pm Tue-Sat. Closed Aug.
A world of red gingham and bright lighting, where staff
will bark instructions at you, many of which are reproduced
on the walls. There is no booking and no telephone,
there is only house wine, there is only a la brasa meat
- and if you don’t like it, you can go elsewhere.
Barcelonins obviously do like it, for they come in droves
to tuck into huge portions of perfectly cooked meat
served with weapons-grade all i oli.
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