Botafumeiro
C/Gran de Gràcia 81 (93 218 42 30 /
www.botafumeiro.es). Metro Fontana.
Open 1pm-1am daily. Closed 3wks Aug.
Reports both ecstatic and negative fly in on this legendary
seafood restaurant, but we found the service excellent
and the shellfish divine. The efficiency of the operation
is staggering, but is also Botafumeiro’s least
likeable aspect. Squadrons of waiters wear white jackets
with gold nautical trim to match the gilt-edged decor,
and every last metre of space put to good use adds to
the impersonal experience. However, the juicy lobster
and shellfish salad is superbly fresh, as are fish dishes
such as baked sea bass smothered in onions, mushrooms,
garlic and flat-leaf parsley, or sole in a delicious
buttery cava sauce with langoustines.
Envalira
Plaça del Sol 13 (93 218 58 13). Metro
Fontana.
Open 1.30-4pm, 9pm-midnight Tue-Sat; 1.30-5pm Sun. Closed
Aug.
Envalira is no looker, with its Artex-coated walls,
stone cladding painted brown, energy-saving lightbulbs,
but there is a decent selection of Catalan, Basque and
Galician favourites with fish cooked every which way,
thick, tender steaks, game dishes and pile-’em-high
salads. This is a good place, too, to try out traditional
desserts - crema catalana, tarta de Santiago, flan,
and so on - which, like everything else here, are own-made,
delicious and keenly priced.
Jean Luc Figueras
C/Santa Teresa 10 (93 415 28 77). Metro Diagonal.
Open 1.30-3.30pm, 8.30-11.30pm Mon-Fri; 8.30-11.30pm
Sat. Closed 2wks Aug.
Jean Luc Figueras’ perfectly executed classics
are rendered unforgettable through wonderful sauces
and innovative combinations, such as roast guinea fowl
with cardamom. The long menu degustación is perfectly
balanced, with highlights including a salad of partridge,
black truffle and foie with Armagnac prunes, Laguiole
fondue with bonito brochettes, or red mullet escabeche
marinated with orange. Desserts, such as the parfait
of peanuts and caramelised banana with milk chocolate
sorbet, are sumptuous combinations of temperature and
texture.
La Cova d’en Vidalet
C/Torrent d’en Vidalet 22 (93 213 55
30). Metro Fontana or Joanic.
Open 1.30-3.30pm Mon; 1.30-3.30pm, 9-11pm Tue-Thur;
9pm-midnight Fri, Sat. Closed 3wks Aug.
A quiet, understated little place with lace curtains,
pale yellow walls and a French air to its decor, its
wonderful service and its rich food. Duck breast, foie
gras and entrecote loom large on the menu, alongside
monkfish ragout ,hake en papillote, partridge and gourmet
burgers with Roquefort sauce. The lunch menu is exceptionally
good value at €6.60.
Laurak
C/Granada del Penedes 14-16 (93 218 71 65).
FCG Gràcia.
Open 1-4pm, 9-11.30pm Mon-Sat.
A sleek, ocean-liner-style cocktail bar opens out to
a spacious and quiet dining room where Basque specialities
such as black pudding from Besain, Idiazabal cheese,
and imaginatively crafted combinations of duck foie
gras with toffee-glazed banana, or red mullet with a
sesame crust and black olive vinaigrette are gracefully
served. The puddings are supremely luxurious, especially
the pistachio biscuit with praline mousse and chocolate
crocante.
Octubre
C/Julian Romea 18 (93 218 25 18). FCG Gràcia.
Open 1.30-3.30pm, 9-11pm Mon-Fri; 9-11pm Sat. Closed
Aug.
A tiny restaurant run by one man with devotion and resolve
to offer seasonally changing Catalan dishes at very
low prices. Thus sizzling patates Eivissenques (Ibizan
potatoes) accompanied by clams, green peppers and sobrassada
(Mallorcan spicy sausage), to start, or amanida Carnestoltes
(Carnival salad), with frisée, botifarra, romesco
sauce and tortilla with haricot beans. To follow, you
might get duck stew with red wine, cabbage and a tasty
mushroom sauce, or tender sea bass on a bed of young
garlic and onions.
Ot
C/Torres 25 (93 284 77 52). Metro Diagonal
or Verdaguer.
Open 2-4pm, 9-11pm Mon-Fri; 9-11pm Sat. Closed 3wks
Aug.
It’s difficult to find food this good in such
a fresh, relaxed atmosphere. There is no menu; waiters
will recommend wine and bring a selection of dishes
which might include prawn tempura with curry foam; tuna
tataki wrapped in a gossamer-thin sheet of pineapple,
or ravioli of smoked aubergine served with pancetta
in a turrón ‘soup’. Spectacular puddings
sometimes include an improbably delicious thyme ice-cream
with a balsamic vinegar reduction.
Roig Robi
C/Seneca 20 (93 218 92 22). Metro Diagonal.
Open 1.30-4pm, 9-11.30pm Mon-Fri; 9-11.30pm Sat. Closed
2wks Aug.
Lots of seagrass matting and a little garden terrace
are all very zen, except on quiet nights when patrolling
waiters, constantly tweaking and watching, can be rather
unsettling - like dining out under police escort. A
short menu is wide in scope, with fish, meat, game and
rice options. The speciality is the succulent prawns
with crispy shredded leek, but duck breast with pistachio
sauce is also excellent. Leave room for desserts: yoghurt
with apple ice-cream and Calvados jelly is not to be
missed.
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